Brothers Lorenzo and Alessandro Boglione, lately appointed as Co-Chief Government Officers of BasicNet, the Italian vogue group that owns Ok-Manner, Sebago, Superga, Kappa and others, which was based by their father Marco in 1994, have been in London this week for an exhibition in celebration of Ok-Manner’s sixtieth anniversary.
Known as ‘Sixty Years of Ok-Manner: In Y/Our Life -The Hidden Facet of On a regular basis Issues’, it’s a part of the tenth version of Photograph London presently working till Sunday 18 Could at Somerset Home.
As properly an archive deadstock Ok-Manner rain jacket and prints of previous promoting campaigns, the exhibition area the model has taken consists of three rooms together with work by numerous photographers and artists, a lot of which is across the theme of ‘Let it Rain’.
Contained in the Ok-Manner Exhibition at Somerset Home
Probably the most stand-out is the room Ok-Manner shares with like-minded manufacturers it invited to share its celebrations with. Manufacturers and merchandise that, like Ok-Manner’s first pack away rain jacket in 1965, have a cultural relevance and, within the phrases of Lorenzo Boglione invite “a visit down reminiscence lane.” They embody Polaroid – of which Andy Warhol’s authentic digital camera is on show – Bic, Publish-it, Moleskine, Rollerblade, Moon Boot, Pongo, Chupa Chups, Borsalino, Borotalco, Bialetti and Scotch. The concept is all of them “be a part of the narrative, revealing the hidden aspect of on a regular basis”.
This is what the Boglione brothers needed to say concerning the exhibition and their plans to develop Ok-Manner within the UK, together with the seek for a second location in London following the opening of the mixed Ok-Manner, Sebago and Superga retailer on the King’s Street in February.
Why have you ever determined to have fun Ok-Manner’s sixtieth anniversary by collaborating within the Photograph London exhibition?
Lorenzo Boglione: We determined to take this route for Ok-Manner’s sixtieth anniversary as a result of we just like the model to be related to the world of artwork – color and innovation are values which can be extraordinarily near the values of the model. For the anniversary, we may have had a celebration and celebrated ourselves, however we determined to have fun with a bunch of different modern manufacturers who share the identical values and have the same historical past to us. Manufacturers that take individuals down reminiscence lane in a short time, akin to Bic, Polaroid, Moon Boot, Publish-It, Rollerblade, Moleskine and Scotch. We determined to inform our tales collectively and contain artists for this exhibition. It’s about being related from a cultural perspective. The truth that Photograph London invited us right here and gave us a lot area is extraordinarily vital, and we’re very happy with it.
Additionally, London continues to be arguably the primary metropolis in Europe – from each perspective together with enterprise, tradition and artwork.
The brand new Ok-way London flagship on King’s Street
Why did you resolve to open a brand new Ok-Manner retailer in London?
LB: We all know we have to make investments to get the model extra recognized out there. We opened the Ok-Manner retailer, which additionally has our Sebago and Superga manufacturers in the identical area, as a result of we wish to develop the manufacturers in England. It’s actually like three shops, as every model has its personal area with its personal furnishings. You possibly can stroll by means of from one retailer to the opposite.
What occurred to the earlier Ok-Manner retailer on Henrietta Road in Covent Backyard?
LB: We have been hit by each Brexit and the Covid pandemic, in order that’s why we closed that one. We weren’t actually organised for it – no person was actually organised to take care of Covid, after all! We opened it as a result of we had the identical imaginative and prescient on the time – to develop the Ok-Manner model within the UK – however that road ended up being extra of a restaurant road. They (the landlords) advised us that they had a plan for the remainder of the road, nevertheless it ended up going a little bit bit otherwise, so we determined to shut it and search for a brand new location.
Why did you choose the King’s Street?
Alessandro Boglione: When it comes to model positioning and other people, the neighbourhood feels proper, in addition to the opposite manufacturers that are close to us. Spending time there, it simply looks like the fitting spot to us.
Are you planning on any extra UK shops?
AB: Sure, we’re already searching for one other London location, so the King’s Street is the primary one – however not the final one. Hopefully we’ll discover one other location this yr, however the precedence is to seek out the fitting retailer. The earlier the higher. With our expertise of the shop on Henrietta Road, we all know that wasn’t the fitting place and the way painful it’s to not be in the fitting location. Location and price are vital. As quickly as we get stronger model consciousness in London, I believe we are able to begin to look outdoors of London for one more retailer, as there are quite a lot of alternatives within the UK for the model.
How is Ok-Manner doing when it comes to wholesale within the UK?
LB: I believe we’re focusing extra on the retail aspect for now. We imagine that you’ll want to create demand for the model earlier than taking the wholesale route. Prior to now, we went to all the massive accounts, however then the product wasn’t promoting by means of that properly, so we determined to take a step again and create demand by means of displaying the model by means of our personal two or three shops. Then the demand will come from the wholesale community naturally. That mentioned, we communicate with retailers consistently, however there needs to be a correct venture for the model – not simply selecting some merchandise and promoting right here and there.
Ok-Manner is world well-known for its vibrant pack-away rain jackets
Dr. Martens proprietor Permira lately acquired a 40% stake in Ok-Manner from BasicNet, is that what’s fuelling this retail enlargement plan?
LB: That deal finalised about two and half months in the past, so it’s nonetheless very contemporary. The choice to open a retailer in London was made properly earlier than that. I’d say the drive for progress and to increase was already there – and that’s the explanation why they invested. Now now we have a associate to take selections along with, and a few board selections are simpler to take with a associate than alone.
AB: Permira has a optimistic observe report as a result of they’ve already achieved it – with each Dr. Martens and Golden Goose. So, transferring ahead with a powerful associate means it’s extra prone to be successful.
When it comes to the Ok-Manner product, it was initially all a couple of pack away rain jacket, how has that now been developed?
LB: Vibrant rainwear continues to be the core, notably the unique ‘Claude’ (full-zip entrance) and ‘Leon’ (half-zip), however we’re already in nearly each different class. We promote lots different merchandise, together with knitwear, T-shirts, fleece and equipment. The model is a complete look way of life model right this moment, with the fashion and imagery of the unique windbreaker on the coronary heart of it. The one class we’re most likely absent in is footwear, and we don’t plan to take that route any time quickly except now we have an incredible thought.
Ok-Manner’s London exhibition options collaboration with manufacturers and artists
What markets is Ok-Manner strongest in?
AB: Italy is our primary market and France is second. Benelux is a powerful marketplace for Ok-Manner too, after which we additionally promote in Spain, Germany and the UK. The UK market is small for us in the mean time, however we at the moment are actually specializing in it.
As Ok-Manner was based in Paris in 1965, and purchased by BasicNet in 2004, how do you keep the unique DNA of the model?
LB: We dig deep into the historical past of the model and its archive. We additionally discover classic items to create merchandise that look acquainted to somebody who hasn’t seen a Ok-Manner product for 20 years or no matter. The model continues to be very recognisable from its origins. In case you take a look at the archive deadstock Ok-Manner jacket on show on the exhibition, which nonetheless has its authentic tag, and one that’s presently in-store, you possibly can see that they arrive from the identical place. That is essential. You instantly perceive that the entire merchandise now we have within the retailer come from that. Typically we might lose enterprise alternatives due to that, however we wish to stay true to the unique model identification.
Important picture: Alessandro (l) and Lorenzo Boglioni. Courtesy: Ok-Manner.
