How does one keep on the extraordinary legacy of a vanguard designer like Martin Margiela? Moreover, how does one observe up on such a triumphant finale as John Galliano‘s theatrical Fall 2024 couture assortment? Go away it to none aside from Glenn Martens to point out the way in which.
If one factor is for positive, it’s that Martens has the Midas contact on the subject of style takeovers. The Belgian designer reveals a penchant for distilling the ethos of established names, whereas holding his finger on the heart beat of the second. Simply as his helming of Diesel is firmly rooted within the Italian denim label’s id, his Fall 2025 Maison Margiela Artisanal debut began on the foundations, reprising core Margiela hallmarks and sustaining the theatricality of Galliano’s tenure.
On July 9, the designer took his viewers again to the place Martin Margiela staged his ultimate assortment in March 2009 at Parisian cultural house Le Centquatre. The flooring have been clad with fragmented tiling, and the partitions have been lined in haphazardly pasted posters, distressed, overlapping with each other, and peeling as if they’d been there all alongside.
The ambiance supplied a robust distinction for the opening seems to be, immediately referencing the 2009 present with the translucent armor of polyurethane robes, coats, and, in fact, Martin Margiela’s signature masks in numerous types. Then, the present took a pointy flip with all-consuming metallic robes, remodeling the fashions into treasured molten ores, eerily shifting down the runway.
Echoes of Galliano come via as effectively, with excessive corsetry and regal floral patterns stained with an antiquarian patina. Martens translated these golden Renaissance-style fragments into Margiela’s language of deconstruction, assembling patchworked textiles to make up trench coats, lengthy skirts, and bodycon attire.
Then, a sure decaying high quality begins to emerge. A jewel-adorned polo shirt appeared as if it had been dug out of the bottom, whereas the bottoms — a pair of light-wash denims — resemble the “oldest pair of denims,” not too long ago uncovered in an deserted mining shaft. What seemed to be leather-based jackets and skirts have been completed with a inflexible and rugged high quality, and even the seemingly mild, sleek materials appeared burnt and tattered.
Nonetheless, together with his closing remarks, Martens ensured his viewers that renewal is imminent. A glance comprising a males’s blazer and skirt was clad in emerald jewels and worn with an amorphous chrome masks, and subsequent, a long-sleeve costume was lined with the spoils of a golden treasure chest. Elsewhere, a full tulle quantity recommended floral blooms, culminating in a bouquet-like headpiece, and the translucent plastic makes its return in a technicolor coat.
Lastly, the present closed with one of many only a few solid-colored numbers of the gathering. An lively lime inexperienced look, juxtaposing a ruffled bodice with a flowing skirt, evoked budding progress and rejuvenation — the subsequent chapter of Maison Margiela has begun.
See the gallery above for a full have a look at Glenn Martens’ Maison Margiela Artisanal debut and keep tuned to Hypebeast for the most recent style business insights.
