Irish-American designer Paul Costelloe gave a lesson in elevating nation put on together with his autumn/winter 2025 assortment at London Vogue Week.
Costelloe, 79, is greatest identified for having been appointed Diana, the Princess of Wales’ private designer in 1983, a collaboration that flourished till her premature loss of life.
It appears this explicit assortment drew upon Diana’s appears from days on the races, when she was being courted by Prince Charles.
Costelloe is famed for his elegant and traditional tailoring, mixing conventional and modern design – which was obvious in his stylish however heritage outerwear.
Introduced to the symphonies of Celtic music, Costelloe stayed true to his roots, incorporating heavy Magees of Eire and Harris Tweed of Scotland – weaving Celtic accents into the gathering.
Born in Dublin however now primarily based in London, Costelloe introduced his AW25 assortment on the luxurious Waldorf Hilton Lodge.
The Grade-II Edwardian-style constructing posed as the right backdrop for a set oozing with old-school glamour.
Impressed by the elite pastime of dressage, Costelloe mirrored the amount, area and vitality obvious within the pastime.
With luxurious flowing robes, ruffled miniskirts and pluming wool coats – the present offered a contemporary tackle the equestrian fashion.
The palette was one among chestnut browns, lotions, berry reds and forest greens.
As together with his final assortment, Costelloe performed with loud prints, resembling minidresses and night robes emblazoned with classic images of showjumping and dressage.
Like with many collections this season, there have been obvious nods to the Eighties by full waisted belts, broad shoulders and daring prints.
Mixed with the present’s equestrian notes, it echoed the scenes of Jilly Cooper’s aristocratic Cotswolds set.
What was as soon as an unglamorous aesthetic, equestrian accents have change into a sublime and refined sartorial alternative – with jodhpurs, using boots and suspenders bumping again up the fashion charts, following Gucci’s equestrian-inspired autumn/winter 2024 present.
In Costelloe’s assortment, using blazers and culottes had been paired with dainty stilettos and wool stockings.
Pluming thick-waisted skirts had been paired with suspenders and suede night gloves. It was really a wedding of steady gear and glamour.
The evening-wear was equally a gorgeously female show – with the runway awash with autumnal daring florals.
The outerwear was undoubtedly the star of the present. Each female but sensible, the coats and capes evoked Chloé’s eminent fall/winter 2024 assortment.
Costelloe’s voluminous silhouettes and opulent wool showcased cosy nation glamour with a contact of preppy panache.
Equipment additionally performed a key half, with saddle luggage in full grain leather-based, thick waisted belts and fingerless using gloves evoking the delicate nation pastime.
The wonder appears additionally took inspiration from the dressage horse, with Toni & Man’s Cos Sakkas designing braided ponytails with slicked aspect components for the fashions.
The gathering acquired a standing ovation as ‘we should say goodbye’ beamed by the sound system.
