Harris Reed, recognized for his gender fluid designs, kicked off London Vogue Week with an Autumn Winter assortment designed to make spectators “very uncomfortable”.
“I need everybody to be very uncomfortable,” Reed mentioned. “I believe by way of uncomfortably, you look deeper inside and query loads about your self and your environment.”
Harris Reed is greatest recognized for his genderfluid designs and for dressing Harry Types for Vogue’s first-ever male cowl. The designer has made waves lately along with his namesake label, while additionally being on the helm of the French vogue home Nina Ricci.
Born in LA, the 28-year-old designer leapt onto the scene solely 5 years in the past, when his 2020 graduate assortment from Central Saint Martins caught the attention of business heavyweight Anna Wintour.
Famed for his intensely sculptural designs, there was no higher setting for Harris Reed’s autumn/winter assortment than the Tate Britain: one in all London’s best architectural landmarks.
Entitled ‘Gilded’, the gathering was accompanied by edgy strings by dwell cellists who delivered their tackle Metallica and introduced on a downlit runway with ultramarine floral pendants hanging within the center like ominous orbs. The high-ceilinged atrium and intense soundtrack set a dramatic tone for the high-octane assortment.
Actress Florence Pugh opened the present at London Vogue Week with a theatrical show. The 29-year-old We Dwell In Time star kicked off the present in a sculptural speared black robe with an organza veil and fluttering false eyelashes.
Pugh’s black hooded gown and sharp-ended corset represented a folklorish determine, and the BAFTA-nominated actress introduced a gap monologue centred on being courageous and “unapologetically you”, which was finalised with Reed at midnight earlier than the present.
The gathering was made up of three colors, with bursts of cobalt blue and yellow ochre towards pitch black seeping onto the runway.
Catsuits, high-rise tutus and caged corsets introduced the maximalist and dynamic magnificence Reed is famed for. The silhouettes introduced old-school excessive vogue again to the ready-to-wear runway.
Alongside his avant-garde ideas had been nods to the Nineteen Eighties, a retro motif obvious in latest collections from Chanel, Vivienne Westwood and Stella McCartney.
Feathers, shoulder pads and pencil skirts imbued a comforting sense of nostalgia towards the unorthodox spikes and spherical plumes of Reed’s earlier designs.
Towering heeled boots, recognized by followers because the ‘H boot’, had been paired with every ensemble – as soon as once more a nod to the outrageous platforms of the previous.
As for the wonder, every mannequin’s hair was slicked again and extreme, with stern brows and hanging eyelashes designed by Sofia Tilbury, Charlotte Tilbury’s world artistry director; the glamour wouldn’t look misplaced in London’s Blitz Membership 40 years in the past.
(Charlotte Tilbury/PA)
The designs had been quintessentially Reed, with ambiguous and capacious shapes gracing the runway in a remarkably blasé method. The designer is constantly capable of strike a steadiness between extreme extravagance and inherent nonchalance inside his garments.
When the gathering wrapped up, Reed himself stepped out for a victory lap closing the present, operating off with a bounce and a fist pump to the air. There’s little question that vogue lovers share Reeds’ sentiments about this assortment.
Learn ‘The Interview: Harris Reed, the pioneering designer, on the facility of fluid vogue’ right here.
