On Wednesday in Milan, Jil Sander’s Fall/Winter 2025 present was greater than a classy spectacle; unknown to these in attendance, the runway marked the swan tune for the German luxurious label’s inventive administrators Lucie and Luke Meier.
Only a few hours after the catwalk’s conclusion, the model despatched out a brief press launch saying the tip of the couple’s tenure as joint inventive administrators: “Jil Sander and its Artistic Administrators Lucie and Luke Meier have mutually determined that this assortment could be the final of their collaboration,” the blast said. The label didn’t title the husband-wife duo’s successor.
Renzo Rosso, chairman of OTB Group (which has owned the Jil Sander model since April 2021), thanked Lucie and Luke for his or her “imaginative and prescient, ardour for excellence, and dedication to the model.”
The duo efficiently led the label for eight years, championing its founder’s penchant for minimalism within the modern-day via exact tailoring, opulent textiles and gender-fluid silhouettes. “The designers seize this event to specific their heartfelt gratitude to OTB and the Jil Sander groups who’ve persistently devoted their power, ardour, and expertise to this venture, and are pleased with the work they’ve completed alongside such great individuals. A particular thanks as effectively to Mr. Rosso,” the discharge ended.
It’s becoming, then, that the Meiers’ last runway was, of their phrases, “a vibrant metaphor of affection.” The present’s darkish staging, punctuated with pitch-black curtains and a moody composition by Benji B, let the designers’ creations declare all the sunshine. Black-tipped and blue shearling fur coats entered the scene with a particular vividity, as did ethereal kilts, hand-crafted alpaca knitwear, and the entire line’s velvet, taffeta, silk, and sequin items. When paired, the aforementioned supplies existed in a kind of blissful rigidity—an intentional exploration on Lucie and Luke’s half that made their textural mastery palpable.
The Meiers, who had been Jil Sander’s longest-standing inventive administrators, had been capable of efficiently construct a definite design id on the model’s helm whereas concurrently paying homage to its historical past—a activity that has grow to be more and more troublesome for up to date designers, as seen by the trade’s endless sport of musical chairs. Certain, the duo’s last assortment would possibly’ve been distant from the model’s previously strict minimalism, however its luxe composition was firmly intact with the model’s refined archive. That’s the Meier’s contact.
Rumors are swirling that Luke and Lucie may very well be subsequent to steer LOEWE, the place current inventive director Jonathan Anderson is predicted to quickly depart. No official phrase has been shared on both of these rumblings, and to let the style rumor mill run much more rampant, Proenza Schouler’s former designers, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, are additionally mentioned to be in conversations to take the Spanish label’s reigns from Anderson. For now, the futures of all events stay unclear, however keep tuned to Hypebeast as extra particulars grow to be accessible.
See Lucie and Luke Meier’s last Jil Sander assortment within the gallery above, and keep tuned to Hypebeast for extra Milan Vogue Week protection.
