“The irony!” exclaimed the Jamaican Theophilio designer Edvin Thompson from the seventeenth flooring of New York’s arty WSA Constructing, the place he’s arrange an intimate showroom for his tailoring-focused Fall/Winter 2025 assortment, titled “The Morning After.” “The idea behind this line was developed earlier than the Met Gala theme [“Superfine: Tailoring Black Style”] was introduced, so after I noticed that, I used to be like, ‘Okay, anyone have to be watching.’”
On an iPad within the nook of the showroom, Thompson had images of his father’s finest outfits and grand hats—all of them expertly and typically whimsically tailor-made—on the temper board for the fashionable Theophilio man. “I actually needed to give attention to tailoring this assortment’s menswear, leaning into the Theophilio man as a result of I really feel like he’s been left behind somewhat bit in previous seasons,” Thompson mentioned.
Because of this, his menswear was wealthy in persona: newsboy hats ballooned casually over wool trucker jackets and leather-based trousers, whereas ribbed knit polos hugged the physique over flaring wool pants. Lime inexperienced corsetted button-ups and pants have been fairly electrical subsequent to a pinstripe single-breasted blazer and costume trousers in stark white. It was all powerfully statement-making, and whenever you seen every of the seems to be on the identical male mannequin within the lookbook, you couldn’t assist however be aware of their collective shapeshifting powers. “Transformative,” Thompson known as the road in a single phrase. That it was.
Given their likeness, it’s possible that we’ll see one (or a number of!) of Theophilio’s newest cuts climb the Met Gala steps this primary Monday in Might. “It’s loopy to assume that each one of this was developed previous to realizing the theme that we’d be celebrating,” Thompson added with a transparent pleasure about style’s forthcoming greatest evening. “It’s wild!” His fortunate muse remains to be unknown; but when one factor’s for sure, they’ll nail the theme.
See Theophilio’s Fall/Winter 2025 assortment within the gallery above, and keep tuned to Hypebeast for extra New York Trend Week protection.
