On this interview, Serbian-born, UK-based designer Roksanda discusses preloved garments, growing the longevity of your clothes and easy methods to construct a sustainable wardrobe.
London-based designer Roksanda Ilinčić mentioned her ideas on the way forward for trend and creating timeless clothes at Dylon’s Sustainable Style Future panel, which closed London Style Week.
“I come from Serbia and the tradition there may be fairly sustainable,” Ilinčić explains.
“You realize, we don’t purchase many garments, we don’t throw the garments away. It’s very pure that garments final virtually longer than you!”
“Once I grew up, we weren’t an over-consuming society, so in some way it’s embedded in me already. So these [sustainable initiatives] usually are not uncommon to me in any respect, as a result of it’s very regular to move garments from grandmother to mom to daughter. [Clothes] turn into an emotional a part of you – it’s not about carrying it for one season after which testing.
“That’s the place the timelessness in my designs comes from.”
The Serbian-born designer established her namesake model in 2005 and rapidly grew to become identified for her daring, sensible and sculptural method to womenswear.
Roksanda robes are worn by everybody from the Princess of Wales to Anne Hathaway and Cate Blanchett, as her glossy but vibrant designs are match for royals and Hollywood A-listers alike. Ilinčić’s sustainable ethos can be a key promoting issue for her clientele.
Her newest autumn/winter 2025 assortment, which debuted at London Style Week, was a part of a collaboration with Dylon Detergent. The laundry detergent model and garment care skilled explored the idea of ‘Rethink New’ with Roksanda, and the way caring on your garments correctly may help form a sustainable way forward for trend.
“This present was impressed by the late British sculptor Phyllida Barlow, and within the coronary heart of her observe was truly utilizing outdated, discarded objects – items that didn’t have any which means – and giving them a brand new life,” explains Ilinčić.
“Barlow included plenty of recycled wooden, MDF, polystyrene, sponges, duct tapes and cardboard [into her artwork]. And I like that concept of wanting into one thing that could be very usually neglected – that’s left to die – and portray it a brand new life.”
Ilinčić used Dylon detergent in her most up-to-date runway assortment, reviving outdated materials from previous collections. Referring to 1 colour-blocked gown she mentioned, “You’ll be able to see [the dress’s] color blocking, very a lot a part of my design DNA, nevertheless it’s additionally combining totally different textures [such as] the black material which was one in all my core materials that I used to make use of in virtually each season. It was a real pleasure to reuse one thing to give you one thing new.”
AW25 robes reworked from outdated materials (Lara Owen/PA)
When requested about how one can begin sourcing preloved items in the event that they’re used to quick trend purchases, Ilinčić drew consideration to the emotional connection individuals have with clothes.
“I believe it’s crucial to purchase items that you just actually love, that you just actually respect. It begins with a aware buy of investing in one thing that’s going to have longevity from an emotional perspective, after which, after all, caring about it.
“I nonetheless have some clothes, for instance, that I took from my mum – and I believe ensuring that you just love [the piece] implies that care will come naturally.
“You’ll ensure that it’s in the perfect situation, taken to the perfect cleaners [and making sure they] are washed with the perfect merchandise. So sure, it begins with the emotional connection you will have with the piece that you just purchase. Ask your self: Why am I shopping for this?”
How one cares for his or her garments to extend their longevity is changing into a rising pattern within the sustainable trend area.
“Wash your garments at a decrease temperature,” proclaims fellow panellist and deputy director of the Institute for Optimistic Style, Shailja Dube.
“That was one of many issues that was fairly attention-grabbing after we did our analysis in our Enabling Garment Longevity report, that truly simply going from, say, 40 levels to 30 levels makes a giant distinction, alongside spot cleansing.”
“It’s not about altering all the things directly,” mentioned Ilinčić, “it’s about small, fixed steps.”
